Tag Archives: finance and investing

Should I Own Shares In My Employer?

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In the late-90s, I committed half my net worth into an investment scheme sponsored by my employer. The scheme was effectively leveraged 20:1. The deal worked out and was part of how I doubled my net worth within 24 months.

Emboldened by my success, in the early 2000s, I ended up with 100% of my net worth in a startup that was effectively leveraged 30:1. Taking out a home-equity loan, to cover my living expenses, triggered a desire to sell down my exposure.

The second deal worked out OK but it was painful. My returns fluctuated between +100% and -65% per annum. The ride up was fantastic, my net worth swelled 1,500%. The ride down was far less fun. In four months, the company crashed, I was unemployed and I watched 50 years’ living expenses go up in smoke.

So my answer, about owning your employer, is, “it depends.”

Depends on what?

Age – How old are you? What’s the implication of losing everything in the company, including your job? How long will it take you to earn your capital back?

The first time that I “bet the farm” I was 28 years old and able to save five years living expenses for each year I worked.

The money that I lost with the second gamble is gone forever. I’m grateful that I restructured my life to sustain that sort of loss.

Total Net Worth – What is your exposure as a percentage of your net worth? What is your exposure in terms of years living expenses?

Annual Free Cash Generation – Put your exposure in context. Based on the cash that you can save this year, how many years savings are tied up?

ProTip: the free cash generation check is a good way to review personal debts as well as the capital that you have tied up in your home. As our earning/saving potential changes, many of us are more exposed than we realize.

The above is an important cross check. If you’re sixty years old and 10% of your net worth represents ten years worth of savings… then you’re in a very different position from a twenty year old where 30% of net worth might equal six months worth of savings.

Reserves & Undrawn Bank Lines – after you make the investment, what are your liquid reserves and undrawn bank lines? Look at these in terms of gross annual salary, core family cash needs and your family cash flow forecast. How long can you last if everything blows up?

In my case, 50 years of living expenses went up in smoke but I knew that I had five years to figure out what to do.

Not wanting to make my life too easy, I had three kids in that time, which tripled my core cost of living. I didn’t anticipate that shift, but you can.

Contingent Liabilities – Does the investment have the ability to make further cash calls? Housing Associations, home ownership, private equity funds, partially paid shares… all can make cash calls at short notice.

Finally, be ruthlessly honest when you estimate your true exposure:

  • Salary
  • Bonus
  • Vested Equity (Shares & Options)
  • Unvested Equity (Shares & Options)
  • Pension / Retirement Account Exposure
  • Cash that you’ll spend if your employer disappears

The employees of Enron, Arthur Anderson, Lincoln Savings & Loan, and Lehman Brothers experienced a severe shift in less than six months. There are many more stories but it’s human nature to talk more about the boom, than the bust!

A Fiduciary’s Reading List

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I’ve completed William Bernstein’s recommended reading from his eBook, If You Can.

The reading humbled me. With a 1st Class degree in Econ / Finance, and 20 years experience in international investing, I was left feeling intellectually arrogant and ignorant. Each of these books challenged my beliefs while explaining financial history.

I’d recommend making these books compulsory reading for your advisers and key family members.

Good people can be found in the field of finance. I appreciate the significant time that each of the authors spent to educate willing readers.

The Millionaire Next Door – introduces the key concepts of wealth, saving, investment and taxes

Your Money & Your Brain – a solid summary of the latest on behavioral psychology as it relates to finance and investment – why I will always fool myself

The Great Depression: A Diary – an inside look at what it is like for a conservative, professional family to live through a depression – 2008-2010 was easy compared to the 1930s – could your family survive on minimal income for multiple years?

All About Asset Allocation – the early chapters were the most useful – simple explanations of the role that volatility plays within a portfolio – reading this book, you’ll be tempted to seek the perfect portfolio mix – my decision has been to keep it simple

Common Sense About Mutual Funds – a wealth of information – Bogle picks apart the industry by making his case for simple and low-cost investing – the book makes one wonder how brokers and financial advisers can sleep at night – readers will learn about the industry structure that silently fleeces its customers

Side Note: if you worked in finance from 1980 to 2000 be sure to adjust your brilliance for volatility and leverage using Bogle’s updated charts. We had one heck of a tailwind. Humbling!

How A Second Grader Beats Wall Street – don’t be fooled by the child-like title – this book will save your family tens of thousands of dollars in fees and taxes

Devil Take the Hindmost – a history of financial speculation – hedge funds in the 1860s & derivatives in the 1600s (!) – as Taleb says, we’re never going to get rid of greed, the challenge is to build the system so the greedy don’t inflict suffering on the good

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To Bernstein’s list, I’ll add Estate & Trust Administration for Dummies – a good primer to get you thinking outside of your own self interest.

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If you are in an advisory, or trustee, relationship then tick off one book per meeting with your professional team.

Read a book, take notes and discuss how the book impacts your family (or your firm).

Challenge yourself with exposure to the best ideas available.

Studying new approaches can be painful but we all benefit from a bit of cognitive dissonance.

My Financial Domain and Legacy

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You can find my Part One here and Paul’s thoughts on Part One here.

#3 – What are the other things in life that are critically important to me, and for which I will be financially responsible?

This is a great question.

Be sure to run your answer by your therapist.

Why?

Because people that are high-achievers and good savers tend to take on responsibilities outside of their domain. I’ve watched families make themselves miserable by taking ownership of the financial wellbeing of adult relatives.

What’s my financial domain? Myself, my spouse and my minor children.

Watching people that I love struggle is no fun at all. However, I respect the people that had the courage to let me suffer as a result of my own choices.

#4 – What are the risks in the universe which may prevent me from fulfilling my responsibilities to myself and to others, and how might I defend against them or at least mitigate their impact?

Another great question!

Humans are lousy at assessing risk and statistics. An excellent investment you can make is reading Taleb’s Antifragile – please don’t use the book as motivation to set up a personal derivatives strategy!

Pro Tip: use insurance products to insure an identifiable risk, not make investments.

#5 – If I have accumulated wealth that exceeds all of the above requirements, how might I best utilize that wealth to derive the most personal satisfaction available from life?

It’s a shame that it takes so much money for people to realize they had won before they even started.

Value your time, more than your money.

Diversify your time towards helping people that have less of what you think you need. Specifically, teach what you’ve learned.

Improve your family’s human capital, starting with your health, your manners and your gratitude to the society that enabled your success. Start with small, simple changes:

  • Physical movement AM and PM
  • Get strong
  • Eat real food
  • Be a little more kind
  • Be a little more fun
  • Optimize your health markers via diet and exercise (blood pressure, cholesterol, blood glucose, body composition)

If you are a self-made person then love the people closest to you by ensuring that they have the opportunity to prove their self-worth via their own initiative and through their own passions. Tell your kids when they impress you.

Be willing to constrain yourself to create harmony within your family and community.

Laugh out loud.

Don’t Know, Don’t Care

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Lexi's Pink BootsA story that runs far beyond your portfolio.

Like most of us, I tend to shun painful thoughts, people, experiences…

However, in reading a book on finance, Your Money & Your Brain, I discovered a better way to think, and live.

Don’t Know, Don’t Care

Rather than getting rid of whatever seems to be bothering me. Why don’t I move my life towards a position where I’m OK either way.

In the finance book, the author was making the case for passive investing.

  • What’s going to happen to… ?
  • Should I sell?
  • Should I buy?
  • Where will interest rates be next year?
  • Corporate profit margins, availability of bank credit, tax policy, insolvency risk, terrorism, politics….

There is no end of worries available to you.

If you’re following a passive strategy with a fixed monthly investment then none of the above matter.

Another benefit is I don’t have to follow the noise that’s constantly pouring out of the media.

Once I saw the logic of changing one area of my life, I started to consider the other areas where I trade happiness, for worry.

Step into the mind of young woman:

  • Will they like me?
  • What will they think about my shorts?
  • Do my shoes match my outfit?

Sweetie, I don’t know but I think you’re terrific.

The “don’t know” strategy doesn’t make me immune to the opinions of others, but it gives me a mantra to occupy my mind on something more useful than worry.

Life is none of my business.

What Do We Need To Retire?

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My post showing how a 1.2% fee differential can cost you 131% of your pension contributions inspired Paul Meloan to write an article about The Clear Value of Financial Planning. The article lays out Paul’s case for his work in the field.

To help you understand the cost/benefit relationship, have your advisers write out the dollar amounts that you’re paying in fees, expenses and taxes. Be sure they include all the soft costs that are buried in your mutual funds.

In Paul’s article, he lays out questions for a family to consider. I thought I’d answer these questions, as viewed from a life outside the box.

#1 – How large of a pool of assets do my significant other and I require in order to live in the manner which we desire for the rest of our lives?

The most important thing for you to remember is to declare victory immediately. You have more than you need and are in a position to think about the future. Many, many people are less fortunate than you. Spending time with the less fortunate will temper your needs and get you to financial freedom more quickly.

The financial services industry is built backwards from your true needs. If you listen carefully then you can hear the industry say, “you can be happy tomorrow if you have more.”

Be happy now, with less.

I recommend that you flip question #1. When I look at my family’s net worth, I express it in terms of “years of current expenditure.”

For example, if your net worth is $500,000 (Assets Minus Liabilities) and your current expenditure is $125,000 per annum then you have FOUR years of current expenditure (500,000 / 125,000).

Why is this is a useful way to consider your position? It’s useful because it changes the conversation from

  • What do I need to be happy tomorrow?; towards
  • How can I spend wisely today?

The years-to-burn exercise reminds me that the fastest way to improve my financial position is to reduce my current expenditure, not take more risk.

In terms of years-to-burn, my peak wealth was 13 years ago. I was living out of a Subaru and sleeping on a friend’s floor in LA. My life was extremely simple – eat, sleep, train. It was one of the happiest periods of my life and my net worth was 1/6th of right now.

It’s worth repeating… I increased my net worth by 600% and feel less wealthy.

Historically, most my spending has been wasted.

  • luxury air travel
  • high-end hotels
  • excessive childcare
  • personal assistants
  • office space
  • non-performing assets
  • personal luxury expenditure (clothes, cars, boats, vacations)

I ditched most of these because I discovered that they were bandaids healing myself from a lack of satisfaction with daily living. My spending was driven by our culture rather than my needs.

Choose your hometown and your buddies carefully! I assure you that the exact same family will have needs that vary by geography. Consider:

  • Manhattan vs Boulder
  • Aspen vs Truckee
  • Palo Alto vs Greenville
  • Santa Barbara vs Hood River

I came close to moving to Palo Alto to spend more time with my pals (love you guys and gals). It would have changed my life – not better, not worse – but absolutely different.

The more time that you spend helping people that have less than you, the smaller your retirement fund will “need” to be. There are examples of this all around us.

Finally, the benefit of wealth is not to leave work. The benefit is to feel secure enough to choose meaningful work, regardless of compensation. Hang out with people that are rich in personal satisfaction (artists, priests, teachers, ministers, caregivers, coaches, guides) – you’ll know them when you speak with them.

#2 – What should be the composition of that pool of assets, and how should they relate to each other in terms of risk and expected returns?

You can beat all of your pals by using Bogle’s Little Book of Common Sense Investing.

As a bonus, the strategy is simple to understand and easy to execute.

If you can’t figure the book out then call Vanguard and they will help you in exchange for a fixed price fee when you need help.

If you keep screwing up then get yourself a financial coach and pay a fixed fee to hold you to your plan.

We all do better when someone is watching – that’s why I have a blog.

Restructuring and Rebalancing My Portfolio

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At the end of May, I did my first rebalancing exercise. This required a fair amount of preparation:

  1. Setting up an individual 401K under my consulting company
  2. Checking my family cash flow for the next 90 days and making sure I had 120 days worth of reserves
  3. Getting a home equity line of credit to cover financial emergencies
  4. Moving legacy retirement funds to the appropriate (pre- or post-tax) IRA account
  5. Shifting my current IRA assets to Vanguard
  6. Making a table that showed where everything ended up, and what it held
  7. Deciding on my desired portfolio mix
  8. Considering tax implications of the restructuring that was implied by my mix
  9. Executing the strategy

The exercise above required wading through admin, building spreadsheets and carefully mapping things out. It’s worth getting specialist advice from a CPA because if you screw up then you can get hit with penalties and/or trigger capital gains taxes.

It’s a pain, and finance companies do not make it easy to move your business away.

Considering fees saved, I earned $1,000 for each hour of my time. I’ve seen cases where families could save up to $10,000 per hour.

Financial inertia can be extremely costly!

My decisions were the result of this year’s reading. I started with the short, free eBook, If You Can, and worked through the author’s recommended reading.

I used Vanguard funds and the expense ratio for my portfolio is less than 0.1% per annum.

Have you asked your adviser to explain your total cost of ownership? Following my blog on expenses, a friend called his adviser, asked the question and was transferred to a call center! He’s still waiting for an answer, they said it would “take a while to pull things together.”

For what it’s worth, my portfolio criteria are:

  • Simple
  • Low cost to hold
  • Focused on long term capital gain
  • Liquid in event of capital being required
  • Tax effective
  • If it won’t make a difference to my overall situation then wait

Like the behavioral finance books say, it was hard to sell the equity funds with the markets at all-time highs.

Now the tough part, resist tinkering and tracking.

Setting Family Financial Priorities – College and Retirement

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wedding_day

What’s next? It’s tempting to think about my kids. College accounts are on my list but they aren’t the next priority.

Why?

Because kids that will be successful don’t need much help and the family (particularly a financially responsible child) gains by not having to pay for Mom and Dad’s Golden Years.

Education has an mixed return on investment. Here’s my article on how families blow more than $1 million per kid. It’s a rare family that looks at education in terms of return on investment.

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If you want to give your family a leg up then take care of yourself. Do this by max’ing out your retirement accounts – especially anything with an employer match.

I have a single member 401K under my consulting business. If you’re self-employed then you can find out your options by getting in touch with Vanguard.

I spent Friday afternoon shifting my retirement assets and Vanguard has an online tool that the self-employed might find useful.

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What about college?

In current dollars, my pals that have put their kids through college have spent $200,000 per kid.

That’s $600,000 for my family of three – ignoring grad school.

Considering my entire family tree, there is no way the family would earn a reasonable return on that level of investment. Of course, my mind likes to tell me that MY kids will be different!

Thinking about the opportunity cost of $600,000:

  • A lifetime annuity of ~$2,400 per month – starting now
  • We could move into one of the best public school districts in the country
  • We could buy three rental properties and teach our kids about money by having them involved in deciding to borrow against the properties (or not) to fund their educations. The kids could receive a direct financial benefit from minimizing the cost (if any) of their educations
  • We could help send a dozen kids to grad school
  • We could back a family member to buy into an established professional practice
  • We could work less (for the rest of our lives) and make the world a better place
  • We could live abroad long enough for the kids to become bilingual (or to gain residency in a country with free education, national health care and retirement support)
  • We could improve the lives of thousands of people in the developing world (schools, safe drinking water, medical care)

The ideas above ignore the cost of the misery that we give ourselves worrying about funding college!

Given that I’m unsure that the family wants to support three college educations, we are working towards funding one college education spread between three 529 accounts.

Total annual contributions to college funds can be $14,000 per kid, per parent => a potential investment of $84,000 per annum for a two-parent family with three kids.

For all but the top 2% of US earners, paying for everything will be out of reach.

Don’t beat yourself up.

The best thing I can do for my family is love them and work on continually improving myself. I’ve come to see the benefits of my constraints.

Setting Family Financial Priorities – Healthcare

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Over the last ten years, my family has incurred well over $300,000 of medical bills – births, broken wrists, malpractice, sick kids, MRIs – it all adds up.

In my family budget, I include my premiums ($7,872) and my entire deductible ($7,500). We fund our deductible via our HSA ($6,550 family contribution limit in 2014) and top up when required. The HSA is funded automatically each month so I’m forced to save that money. Most US Bank’s have a subsidiary that can help you set up an HSA.

$15,000 per annum is a lot of money but most years, we “save” a dollar for each dollar we pay out.

BellaFor example, my daughter spent 4 nights in the hospital:

  • $18,500 retail price became $8,500 after discounts given to my insurer
  • $8,500 bill blew through our deductible so we received a $7,500 invoice
  • We had previously saved $5,000 in our HSA so…

End result… I write an unexpected check for $2,500 instead of $18,500.

Health insurance offers up some benefits:

  • Cap our potential liability
  • Access the discounted rates offered to our insurance company
  • Pay automatically (direct debit insurance payments and HSA contributions)

Sidebar: work with health benefits would be a valuable addition to our family. A decent health plan could save us $15,000 per annum.

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My next investment is a long-term care policy – about $5,000 per annum for the two of us. Even though the likelihood of payout on the policy is remote – for now – the policy gives me a lot of comfort in case tragedy strikes my wife, or me.

More on this in a post from 2010.

If I couldn’t afford my retirement investments then I’d skip the long-term care insurance, it has a low expected return on investment.

Getting Crushed Financially

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Market Moves

I love this chart.

Blow it up, print it out and study!

Jerry created the chart to show nearly a century of bull markets but what caught my eye was the nature of the eight bear markets.

  • Duration of 3 to 34 months
  • Scale of loss (peak to trough) of 22 to 84%

If you’re an investor then it’s important to realize that it is perfectly normal that you’ll get crushed once a decade. Knowing that it’s normal won’t make it hurt less, but it might make you realize that your pain is temporary.

Personally, my worst bear market was 2008. It was a doozy.

In the space of six months:

  • my family’s net worth fell 65%
  • I lost my job
  • My dependents doubled
  • I discovered that my (joint & several) partner was involved with fraudulent activity
  • I was exposed to the risk of civil prosecution

Absolutely awful.

I share this story to help you remember that THE world isn’t ending when YOUR world collapses.

Setbacks are part of life and my making it 20 years without a major financial setback was abnormal. In fact, I had several setbacks along the way (15% hits) that I’d forgotten.

Save the chart for a rainy day and I’ll retweet at the next recession.

Checking In With Your Real Estate Investments

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Today’s article is longer than usual (1,150 words) but it’s worth big money to most families. I’m going to run through how you review a property investment. I use a version of this template for every property deal that I consider.

I make the cost of property ownership visible to my family. This habit keeps me from buying too large a property, or leaving valuable assets empty most of the year.

If you can’t calculate the sums before you buy then wait.

If you remember one thing from this article… act as if you will “lose” 10% of your purchase price the day you buy.

Let’s get started!

First: Calculate Net Realizable Value – What Happens If You Sell?

Start by coming to a view on current market value. To estimate market value, lay out the different options available. Be conservative, I’ve been known to fool myself with a dream value that has no chance of being realized.

In the case of the sample property, I have a wide range of options to value:

  • Dream value – $1,000,000
  • Estimate from Zillow.Com – $949,795
  • Have the owners ask local agents what they think – $925,000
  • Old appraisal – $850,000 (Nov 2012)
  • Assessment value from the city – $830,000 (end 2013)
  • Written down tax basis – $792,772

The tax basis of the property is your allowable cost, plus additions that are capitalized, less depreciation that you’ve taken against your taxes. When you buy a property, you have to allocate the cost between buildings (depreciable) and land (not depreciable). I usually use the appraisal that was done at the time of purchase, or figures from the county assessor’s office.

With this property, I know that the owners checked with local real estate agents and applied a discount to what the agents told them. So, for the purposes of this exercise, I’m going to use the Owner’s Valuation of $925,000.

When you sell, you don’t get the gross value. I account for sales expenses by taking 94% of the gross value. In our example, that leaves $869,500 (94% of $925,000).

The next step is to strip out any capital gains tax that would be payable. In this case, I know the family has an effective capital gains tax rate of 25% (including State). So we take the net price ($869,500) and deduct the taxable basis ($792,772) to get the taxable gain of $76,728. Taking 25% of the gain gives a capital gains tax liability of $19,182.

So the net realizable value for the property is $869,500 less $19,182 => $850,318.

Note that the net realizable value is FAR LESS than the gross value.

Rule of thumb: the market usually needs to rise 10% for you to get your money back.

I assume that I lose 10% of the purchase price on the day I buy. This assumption makes me reluctant to buy, which has saved me from many poor investments!

As an asset class, real estate is costly to own, illiquid and expensive to sell. Do your sums before purchasing.

Next: Figure Out The Cash Flow Before, and After Financing

For the next bit, you probably want to print the article out, grab a pencil and make notes for your own property.

If you can’t handle the pencil/paper method then this is a link to a spreadsheet that will do the calculations for you – make your own copy and fill in the Blue Cells. A picture of the spreadsheet is below.

Property Data SetStart with your net income after all expenses and depreciation. If you live in the US then pull up your Schedule E and look on Line 21 – in this case the net income was $4,476.

I recommend separate bank accounts for your main house expenses and any property investments. This makes it easier to track expenses by property.

To calculate cash flow before interest, we need to add back interest – Line 12 in the US – $9,375.

At this stage, I like to make a note about the total debt outstanding and the interest rate you pay – in our example the debt is $250,000 at a rate of 3.75%. Remember that you only want to count interest paid, not principal repayments.

Revenue Less Expenses ($4,476), Add Back Interest ($9,375) gives you $13,851 of profit before interest expense.

Because depreciation is a non-cash expense, you add depreciation back to calculate cash flow before interest and depreciation. In the US see Line 18 – $14,160 for this case study.

So the total net cash flow (before interest and depreciation) is $13,851 + $14,160 = $28,011.

To check the gross cash yield on the property you divide cash flow before interest and depreciation by the gross net realizable value. $28,011  / $850,318 = 3.3%.

3.3% is the gross yield and ignores the mortgage that is in place. The gross yield tells you the cash that the asset is generating. To figure out how your equity is performing, you need to adjust for the debt that was used to purchase the property.

Let’s adjust for interest and debt.

  • $28,011 less interest of $9,375 gives $18,636 of cash flow after interest
  • Net Realizable Value of $850,318 less debt of $250,000 gives $600,318 net realizable equity value. The equity is the value of “your money” in the deal.

$18,636 / $600,318 = 3.1% return on equity

Consider Taxes

Note that the 3.1% return on equity (above) does not take into account Income Taxes (federal and state) that would be payable on the net income. I know that the owners have an average income tax rate of 25%.

With real estate, your taxable profit is reduced by depreciation charges. So you take the net profit after interest and depreciation ($4,476) and multiply by your tax rate (25%) to get taxes payable of $1,119.

Income taxes reduce the return on equity to 2.9% – calculated as  ($18,636 – $1,117) / $600,318.

If you are able to hold for a long time then property can be a tax effective way for you to invest your money. Note that, in this example, the effective tax rate is 6% ($1,117 / $18,636).

Remember to estimate your taxes on the income after interest and depreciation.

Finally: Step Back and Consider The Big Picture

Now you have the financial information required to consider the deal (buy, hold, sell, refinance).

Questions I consider:

  1. What are the family’s overall financial goals and how does this property fit into these goals?
  2. How large is this asset class as a percentage of the family’s total balance sheet?
  3. What are the alternative uses of the equity in this property?
  4. Are there debts that cost more than this property is yielding?
  5. Are there large capital sums that will be paid in future years (roof, structural, local energy regulations)? If yes, then consider if you need to adjust value or increase future expense budgets.
  6. Consider the sustainable yield. Know that by adding back the depreciation, you have made an assumption that you won’t have to replenish the building any faster than your current year repairs budget. If the current year was a light expense year then are fooling yourself on the true yield that you’ll be receiving.

Ideally, you will have done ALL these calculations BEFORE you bought the property. If you did the calculations then pull them out and compare your budget to actual experience.

Update your numbers each May and track your investment over time.

You can find more about property investing in my free book available for download here.

If you’re curious about my thoughts… I like this deal because it sits beside a downtown core with strong economic growth. It’s yielding nearly 3% after tax and has excellent prospects for continued capital growth. Down the road, owners can retire to this property, rent out one of the units and live in the other at a low net cost.